The Under-Cover Emperor - Tea - Gesture
Being an Indian, born and raised in Hong Kong during the vibrant 90s, enjoying Chinese food and regularly attending dim sum with family has always felt like a natural part of my life. However, one memorable day, my dad shared with me a fascinating experience he had that opened my eyes to the rich cultural significance behind the dim sum etiquette we often take for granted.
And here is what my dad told me, back in the 90s, when my dad was truly in his prime. He went to a bustling dim sum restaurant with some of his close friends. While my dad was busy ordering a variety of delicious foods for them to enjoy, and once the waiter had left the table, his friend, who was sitting right next to him at the time, shared an intriguing story. Do you know that there is a fascinating backstory to why people knock on the table during meals at dim sum restaurants?
The Story of the Emperor
According to legend, the esteemed Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty once embarked on a secret visit to a quaint town in China, disguised as an ordinary civilian and accompanied by several trusted staff members for security purposes. During this covert excursion, the group made the decision to enjoy an authentic experience at a charming teahouse to indulge in a traditional yum cha. In a remarkable display of humility and camaraderie, the emperor decided to take a teapot into his hands and serve his staff some delightful tea. The staff, understandably terrified at the prospect of being discovered, found themselves in a predicament where they could not kneel to express their gratitude to the emperor for fear of exposing his true identity. In a moment of inspiration, they experienced a brilliant lightbulb moment, and collectively decided to knock on the table three times using three fingers curled into fists as a subtle yet respectful way to signify their heartfelt kneeling three times in gratitude.
Since then, the ritual has been well noted in modern literature, such as in Kung Fu Tea Dialogue (功夫茶話) by Cao Peng, as a way to thank someone during yum cha without interrupting the conversation or talking with a full mouth. Cao also noted that the gesture means both saying yes to more tea, as well as gratitude. Unfortunately, the possibility of this story being historically accurate is rather low, according Dr Siu Yan-ho, a lecturer in the Department of Chinese at Hong Kong’s Lingnan University.
“The chance of the Qianlong Emperor visiting the society in civilian clothing was not high. The official diary of the emperor, as well as other related historic records in the era, are considered very well preserved, but there is currently no record of him doing such a thing,” he explained.
However, an alternative source for the tradition comes from Xu Jie-Xun in his book Han Dynasty’s Folk Customs (汉族民间风俗). He explains that during banquets in the Tang and Song Dynasties, guests had to sing a song for each round of drinks while the listeners created a beat for the singer. Without proper percussion instruments on hand, people would instead knock their fingers on the table, known in Chinese as ji-jie (擊節). Although the custom of singing at banquets has faded away, knocking on wood has become a sign of thanks and encouragement used now solely for tea-pouring. The meaning of the Chinese term ji-jie also transformed from ‘creating a beat’ into ‘knocking on the table’.
There are different ways to knock, depending on your relationship with the person pouring the tea. To elders, you should knock with a closed fist, to symbolise prostration and admiration. Between people of the same generation, knock with your index and middle fingers, much like cupping one fist as a sign of respect.
This captivating story has truly got me feeling both amused and curious about the rich Chinese culture. It has sparked my interest in exploring how the profound history continues to exist and influence our everyday life in contemporary society. Each detail serves as a reminder of how tradition and modernity can beautifully coexist.
